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Care and Feeding of Ferrets
Ferrets can live 5-10 years. They are nocturnal animals, sleeping during the day and becoming active during the night. ferrets do have a tendency to nap at any time, making them an ideal pet, as they are more than willing to wake up when you're available to play. For the most part, your ferret(s) should be confined in a roomy cage that has proven escape proof, with built-in water supply, food, and litter box. You can let your ferrets run free for periods of time but only under strict supervision as they are prone to chewing on electrical cords, carrying away and hiding small objects, and eating various things that may need surgical removal later on. It is very important to 'ferret proof' the area, closing all access to the outdoors, under furniture, cabinets, into walls, etc. Also, ferrets can jump or climb to fairly high places (often referred to as teleporting, as no visible means can be found), but can injure themselves jumping down. Exercise is also an important part of a healthy life for your ferret(s).

Catching your pet when it is running free takes patience. The best method is to train your pet to respond to a squeaky toy, using rewards such as raisins or ferretone. Then when you squeak the toy it will come running to you. Chasing a ferret to catch it only causes your ferret to think you are playing. Ferrets are intelligent and can be taught other small tricks, such as rolling over, fetch, and playing dead.

Feeding

Ferrets are obligate carnivores. For the first three years, your ferret should be on a good premium kitten food, and/or one of the ferret foods currently available. After three years of age, a premium quality cat food and/or ferret food should be offered gradually. If possible, a variety of foods should be available to supply the greatest range of nutrients. Food should be available at all times, as ferrets tend to eat fairly often and hypoglycemia (low blood sugar) can cause convulsions and other health problems. Your pet must also have clean fresh water daily, any left over from the previous day should be removed and containers rinsed before refilling.

Most ferrets respond well to treats, and this can be a most rewarding interaction. They learn to respond quickly to the shaking of a box or bag. Ferrets are more than happy to eat cheerios, other grain cereals (avoid sugars when possible), raisins, bananas, avocados, and a variety of other fruits and vegetables. Go light on these snacks, as carnivores can have trouble digesting too many fruits and vegetables. It is always better to underfeed treats than to overfeed treats.

Some food comparison charts: from the Northern Ohio Ferret Association, MD Ferret Paws, and The Ferret Store.

Climate and Housing

Your ferret should be kept in a comfortable temperature, approx. 55-70F. Temperatures over 90F can be fatal. In warm weather, the cage should be in an air-conditioned room or have towel wrapped ice packs (1 liter soda bottles work well) placed in the cage.

Selection the properly constructed cage is important. The larger the cage, the better, but be sure the spacing between the bars is small enough that a small ferret can not escape. (Less than 1.5 inches in most cases) Many companies now make cages specifically for ferrets - be sure to check for sharp edges and wide openings. The food bowls will need to be secured to the cage as ferrets are notorious for tipping them over. Water bottles that clip on the side of the cage work very well. A hammock or pile of soft cloths (such as towels or old sweatshirts) should be provided for bedding.

Ferrets tend to relieve themselves in corners, making them fairly easy to litter train. A litter box in 1-2 corners of the cage will usually do the truck, though expect the occasional 'accident'. DO NOT USE CEDAR OR PINE SHAVINGS - They are hazardous to your ferrets health. These cause fumes that can irritate and depress the immune system of the respiratory tract of a ferret. Bedding should be changed frequently to reduce odor.